What To Check Before Taking Your Machine To The Shop



If you’re getting frustrated with your machine, take a deep breath, and go through the following list.  (You can click on the images to make them bigger.)



1.  When you see this on the back of your  fabric, it usually means that the top thread hasn’t been threaded properly, and is probably not completely in the tension disks.  Remember to lift the presser foot when you thread your machine.  This will open the tension disks, so the thread can go inside them.  Re-thread the top and bobbin threads.  Be sure you are threading correctly.  

2.  Adjust your tensions.  Set your upper tension at the “normal” setting.  It is usually marked on the dial.  If not, set it at 3.  Thread the machine with a dark thread on top, and a light thread in the bobbin.  Then sew with a medium zig-zag stitch.
3.  Do you need to adjust your bobbin case tension?  Remember, “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.”


Here are some pictures of bobbin cases.  Your drop-in bobbin also has a bobbin case, that you can adjust the tension on.  They are the plastic ones on the right.



The top thread should be just a “tick” on the back of the fabric.  (See the "Sewing Machines Tensions" page for more details.)



4.  Replace the needle — it may be bent, have a broken tip, or a burr on it.  Is the needle inserted in the right direction?  Usually the flat side on the top of the needle, goes towards the back, but not always.  Side-loading machines will be different, so check your machine’s manual on these.  Is the needle pushed all-the-way up?  If it's skipping stitches, that's the first thing to check.  Is it the right needle for your machine?  Most machines need a needle with the 130/705H configuration on the package.  Schmetz and Bernina needles are interchangeable.  Singer needles are not.

5.  Clean and oil the bobbin and feed dog area about every 2 to 4 hours of sewing time.  Remove the bobbin, bobbin case, needle plate (and hook on an oscillating bobbin system).  Use the lint brush to sweep out the lint, and put one drop of oil on the race or center hole under the bobbin case.  Only use clear “sewing machine oil,” not 3-in-one or WD-40.  Sew on a scrap of fabric to remove excess oil before sewing an important project.  (See the "How To Clean and Oil the Bobbin Area" page for more details.)

6.  Are you using a good quality thread?  It really does make a difference!  If you want a quality stitch, use a quality thread.  I recommend Metler or Guternam.  Never use “hand quilting” thread on your machine.

7.  Are the feed dogs up?  Do you know where your feed dog switch is?  Flip the switch, and rotate the hand wheel one complete turn to bring them up.  Please don’t try to force them up.  On many machines, it just takes one rotation of the hand wheel to bring them back up.

  
8.  Is your bobbin winder switched on?  If your machine is locked-up, and you can’t even turn the hand wheel, it may be that your bobbin winder is on.  Or if you press the foot control, and the machine makes a noise, but doesn’t sew, it may also be that your bobbin winder is on.   Switch it off or tighten the clutch on the hand wheel (on an older machine).


9.  If your fabric isn't feeding through the machine, check your presser foot tension, if your machine has one.  This controls how tightly the fabric is squeezed between the presser foot and feed dogs.  It is usually on the top, left of your machine.  You can tell if it’s too loose by lifting and lowering the presser foot lever.  You should feel some resistance.  Tighten it if it’s too loose.
 


10.  Is the bobbin in the bobbin case correctly?  Put the bobbin in so the thread makes a “lazy S” as the thread is pulled into the slit.  In other words, you don’t want the thread rolling off the bobbin and straight into the slit.  You want the thread to turn back, then go into the slit.  Usually, with oscillating or rotary hook systems, when you put your bobbin in the bobbin case and pull the thread, it should rotate clock-wise.  Drop-in bobbins will usually rotate counter-clock-wise.  Are you using the correct bobbin for your machine?  Check the height and width.  It should fit snuggly in the bobbin case, but not bind.  And it shouldn't be taller than the bobbin case (unless your machine is a Singer Featherweight).  Make sure your bobbin isn’t wound loose or sloppy, and that there are no threads dangling out of the center or wrapped around the outside.




11.  Check your stitch length.  If your machine is “eating” your fabric, you may want to make the stitch length a little longer.  Or if you’re starting on a pointed corner, sew on a scrap before feeding the corner under the needle.



12.  If you’ve gone through the list, and you’re still not sewing well, you’ll probably need to take your machine to the shop.  Your machine may just need a deep cleaning.  Or, it’s  possible that the timing is off.  You’ll know this if the needle thread isn’t picking up the bobbin thread, or if the machine is skipping stitches.  What causes the timing to go out is hitting a big pin, or sewing over a really thick seam or breaking a needle.  Adjusting the timing is something only a trained  professional should do.



68 comments:

  1. Hello Can you help please/ My bobbin/bobbin case will not turn when the needle goes up and down. The side dial turns, the shaft turns right up to the where the two gears come together, but they will not turn as if they were simply disengaged by a clutch. SINGER MERRITT 9608. Its about 25 years old.

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  2. My 1913 White VSM is breaking the thread is it the needle? Wrong size for thread? Also I did get it sewing but it was skipping some stitches? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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  3. Hi Karen,
    Your machine has a side-loading bobbin, which means the needle goes in side-ways, so the hook can pick-up the thread from the back side of the needle. Put a new needle in, so you’re working with a needle you know is straight and sharp. It should take a regular Schmetz 130 705H size 80/12 needle. When a machine is skipping stitches, the first thing to check is that the needle is in the right position, and pushed all the way up. If your needle is in correctly, and it’s still skipping stitches, the timing is off. Where it’s breaking thread, too, it makes me think the needle may be hitting the hook – needle/hook distance is just one timing setting. Breaking thread could also be because there’s a burr on the hook or on the needle plate. You can polish a burr off with very fine sandpaper 400 to 600 gritt). Or you could just have rotten thread, so use some brand new quality thread.
    Good Luck!

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  4. my singer model 99 portable circa 1928 after a few stitches jerks the top thread so hard about a foot or so spins off and around the spindle. is this an adjustment or is it time to take it to the shop?

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  5. I'm impersesd by your writing. Are you a professional or just very knowledgeable.Thanku….ALOKA UST-5546

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  6. My foot pressor or shank moves side to side along with bar above. I have screw that feel out of the machine and I think it has something to do with it but I don't see where ot goes?

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  7. Hi, I have a Singer Simple 3116 and all of a sudden it will not sew forward, just stays in one place. It will sew backwards, no problem. Any ideas? To take it to shop will cost $100 and the machine only cost me $119. on sale, so if you say just toss, I will. I wanted to donate it to a community center as it is only 2 years old with light use. Thank you.

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  8. Hi Mary,

    It could be a couple things. First, remove the needle plate and clean out any lint under the feed dogs.

    Then completely re-thread the top and bobbin, making sure there aren’t any thread tangles along the thread path.

    Put your stitch selector on a straight stitch, with the stitch length knob on the highest number, then watch what happens. If it’s not sewing forward, try a different stitch. Sometimes the tracer on the pattern cams gets gummed-up, and you need to flip the stitch selector around to help it dislodge. Sometimes it gets caught in one of those forward/backward stitches, or the buttonhole system.

    One more thought... On the front of the machine, just to the right side of the bobbin door, is the feed-dog drop switch. Make sure it’s all the way into the feed dog up position. And give it some oil, on the little barrel at the top of the mechanism.

    Go that far, and let me know what you find.

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  9. he "Sewing Machines Tensions" page for more details.) ... ssewingmachine.blogspot.com

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  10. I have a Kenmore model 148.19371 that's about 36 years old. I have used it a lot for making clothes and quilts, and it has worked fine with my cleaning and oiling it. But now it looks and sounds like a gear is slipping. The machine runs fine while the bobbin case is out of the shuttle, but putting it back in place causes a grinding noise. I'm able to manually move the left half of the shuttle, the part attached to the machine, and put it back into the correct position so the shuttle can be reassembled, but then it pops back out of place when I try to sew. Do you think there's anything I can do to fix it?

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  11. I have a Juki. Less than a year old. It sounds like my bobbin is going to spin right out of the casing! It is SO LOUD when I sew it's annoying! I bought the more expensive machine so it would be a nice quiet time sewing. My manual says nothing about oil. My bobbin casing and feed dogs and everything are clean. I'm at my wits end. It's still under warranty but I have no idea where to take it for service! Juki HZL F300 . Thank you for any advice!

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  12. Hi Pam,

    On those drop-in bobbin machines, there’s a spring that the bobbin case bounces off of. Sometimes the spring gets bent, and sometimes the plastic bobbin case gets a rough spot. With either problem, the machine makes a banging noise every time it makes a stitch, just as the thread is pulled through the gap between them. You can take the plastic bobbin case out and feel for rough spots, especially on the bump that hits the spring. If you find a rough spot, you can polish it off with a very fine sandpaper (400 to 500 gritt). If the spring is bent, you can usually bend it back into shape. There’s a picture on my blog at this link. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/how-to-clean-and-oil-bobbin-and-feed-dog.html Scroll down until you get to “How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area On a Drop-in Bobbin System.” You can click on the picture to make it bigger.

    If that’s not the problem, you could be using the wrong bobbin. Those Juki bobbins are very specific to their machine. You can’t use anything but a Juki bobbin in those.

    I hope that’s helpful. Keep me posted.

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  13. I have a Singer tech tronic 2000. And the bobbin seems to need something to shoot up from.the bottomed to wind the bobbin. I have looked at every you tube video available.

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  14. I’ve found a YouTube video for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhsnFTopUpo Basically, you thread the top of the machine just like you always do, right down through the needle. Then open the bobbin cover and put an empty bobbin in place. Move the little switch inside there, over to the middle of the bobbin. Put the thread under the presser foot and secure the end around the thread cutter (behind the presser foot), and push the foot control until the bobbin is wound.

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  15. I have a singer inspiration and the bobbin isn't turning . I can see the mechanism under it spinning but the bobbin itself isn't spinning.

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  16. I have a Janine, New home, my excell 4123. Sews like a dream but now won't do the back stitch when I press the switch. Is there something I can do to fix this.

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  17. Hi Jeri,

    Most likely, the mechanism is frozen with old oil. If that’s the case, you can use WD-40 to remove the old oil. When you look at the open bottom of the machine, and push the back stitch button, watch what moves. Follow the mechanism from the button to the feed dogs and spray WD-40 along the whole path. Then help the mechanisms to move by hand or with a screwdriver, until the button will do it by itself. Then you have to remove the WD-40. Here’s a link on my blog about how to use and remove the WD-40. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html

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  18. Thanks so much for sharing this awesome info! I am looking forward to see more posts by you!
    size of skips

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  19. I have a bernette 66 it froze up so I took it apart and found the bobbin froze up. I fixed that, put it back together and then the timing was off. I fixed that and now the belt keeps popping off and the bobbin case keeps jumping out of place. Please help

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  20. Hi Demaris,

    Most of the time, when the bobbin case jumps out, it’s because of a defective bobbin. Try to run the machine with the bobbin case in, and no bobbin. If it still jumps out, you’ve probably scrambled something. If it doesn’t , use a different bobbin. A metal 15 class Singer bobbin works better than the plastic bobbins that come with the machine, but they can get bent. And the plastic bobbins get rough edges. Throw out the bad bobbins so you don’t have the same problem again.

    As for the belt... I wonder if the motor mount worked loose? Does the motor move around? If so, set the belt tension (not too tight and not too loose) and tighten the bolts on the motor mount. Then make sure there’s no debris getting caught in the belt. I’ve seen some pretty impressive lint balls that get caught in the belt and it makes a terrible racket.

    There are certain things, like adjusting the timing, that only a trained tech should attempt. There are several timing settings: needle-hook distance, thread passage, loop lift, return motion, feed dogs and needle bar. They all need to work together. Generally, if something is froze-up, we don’t need to take anything apart, just work some WD-40 in, and that will take care of it. We see machines that get scrambled because a person doesn’t know what they’re doing, and we can’t always unscramble them. So, before you go any further, ask yourself if it would be better to pay a professional.

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  21. I have a Kenmore sewing machine that is about 15 years old and it has always worked well, I clean it and oil it regularly when it is in use. I pulled it out to work on a Halloween costume for my daughter and the bobbin is not turning at all. At first I thought it was a timing issue but I took out the bobbin and its casings (like I do when I dust it out) and when I turn the wheel for a manual stitch, nothing moves around in there where the bobbin sits. The needle is still going up and down, everything looks normal with everything else but the bobbin is not turning. Any thoughts?

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  22. Hi Lizzie,

    Sounds like either a gear is broken or a screw is loose. It’s more likely that a screw is loose somewhere. Those are pretty good machines. Take off the needle plate and the bottom of the machine and watch what happens as you turn the handwheel. If the gears under the bobbin area are covered, remove the gear box cover and watch what goes on with those gears. If something is just loose, the timing will most likely be off. And timing is something you’ll want a sewing machine mechanic to fix for you. If it’s a broken gear, it can be replaced, but again, the timing will have to be set by a professional.

    Good Luck with your machine!

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  23. help! I have a brother ls2125. I went to sew today and the sewing machine eats the fabric and the top thread gets wound up around the bobbin casing and inside of it. I took off the plate and checked it and nothing was obstructing it and i also looked in at the bobbin and it was fine and there was no loose threads or anything.

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  24. When a sewing machine eats the fabric, it’s usually when we start sewing on a corner. If you sew on a scrap, on a straight edge, then put your corner in right up next to the scrap, it will prevent the machine from eating the fabric. Another good habit to get into is to hold the thread tails for the first 2 or 3 stitches, every time you start sewing. I’ve been in the habit of doing just that for 40+ years.

    Another thing that is worth checking, is the needle. When you’re having trouble with your sewing machine, it’s a good idea to start with a new needle – it could be dull, broken or bent. And be sure you use the right size needle. If the needle is for thicker fabrics, and you’re sewing on thin fabrics, it will push the fabric into the needle hole and jam it.

    I hope there’s something here that will help.

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  25. I have a Brother that is about 25 years old. It sews okay, but the bobbin clutch will not engage so I can wind a bobbin. Initially I thought the inner wheel had been overtightened when the bobbin winding had finished. I had my husband try to turn it for me, but it would not budge for him either, not even with the screw removed - and I checked to make sure he was turning it in the correct direction. Do you have any ideas about what the problem might be and how to fix it?

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  26. Hi Mindy,

    If the handwheel is stuck, it won’t disengage to wind a bobbin. When I get a stuck handwheel, I use two pieces of grippy shelf liner. One is wrapped around the big outer wheel and the other is wrapped around the small, inner knob. Then I use a pair of channel locks to grip the inner knob, and twist with all my might. That usually gets it un-stuck for me. Someone else suggested getting two strap wrenches to wrap around each part and twist in the opposite direction. I’d like to get a pair of those and try it someday. I have a post about how I had to resort to violence to get one off. Here’s a link to that post. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-wrong-oil.html

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  27. Graduate 2 model 724 sees great but on stitch other than straight the hand wheel pops in and out. Any solutions? Thank you L

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  28. If the handwheel is popping in and out, that can’t be good. The first thing I’d check is the bobbin winder clutch. Has the center knob been removed? If so, has it been put back together correctly? It goes back together with the inner ring nubs facing outward. Here’s a picture and instructions for putting it back together correctly. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/p/bobbin-winder-clutch.html

    If that’s not it, I wonder if there’s a loose collar on the upper shaft. To check that, grab the upper shaft and see if it will wiggle right to left. Or, maybe the worm gear or the vertical shaft gear are broken, and that might give it some wiggle.

    On those old Singers, they’re generally not worth putting the money into them for major repairs, like replacing a gear. But if it’s just the bobbin winder clutch or tightening a collar, it should be something that could be taken care of with a basic service.

    I hope you’re able to get your machine going.

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  29. Thank you for your prompt response. It is not the bobbin winder clutch. It appears the whole upper shaft is moving when cams are ingaged. I will check for loosened parts. Worm gear hard to see without removing lots of parts. Nice clean machine and great cabinet, I was hoping to clean it up and pass along as cheaply as possible. I will go through it again and get back with you. There wasn't anything like this problem anywhere. Thanks again. L

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  30. I have a Brother that I haven't used in a couple of years. The tension dial is stuck on the highest setting and will not turn. I tried oiling it but no success. Any ideas?

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  31. I’m assuming that your machine is a newer Brother with the tension dial on top. Sounds like that tension dial may have taken a hit. It may be bent on the inside, and is just stuck. Those newer Brothers are hard to get inside of. I think your best bet is to force it from the outside. When I can’t get a grip on something, I’ll use a kitchen gripper. If you can’t get it with a kitchen gripper, it would be better for you to take it to a shop than to try to get inside yourself.

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  32. My friend has a Singer Talent 3321. It's 4 years old and lightly used. Most recently, it made a clicking noise when sewing. I think I isolated the noise to the outer (metal) bobbin case (the one that rotates when sewing). We changed the needle, re-threaded the machine, changed the bobbin, checked for debris around the bobbin case. Still clicking. Took the bottom plate off the machine; didn't see anything of note. Took the foot plate off. Couldn't remove the bobbin case without removing screws that were on too tight for me to remove. It sewed fine, so we just used it and hoped it would keep going. Any other suggestions? Thanks. Judy

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  33. Hi Judy,

    On a drop-in bobbin, there’s a spring under the needle plate, on the right/front. There’s a bump on the bobbin case that will bounce off of it. If that bump, or the spring, gets damaged, it will make a “thump,” every time the thread goes between it.

    Another thought is that the needle may be hitting the needle plate or the hook (the part that rotates around the bobbin case). To check if it’s hitting the needle plate, remove the presser foot and watch what happens to the needle when you turn the handwheel. To check if it’s hitting the hook, remove the needle plate and watch what happens when you turn the handwheel. When the needle and hook point come together, there should be one thread distance between them. If the needle is hitting either one, the needle/hook distance needs to be adjusted. It’s a pretty simple adjustment. If that’s what it turns out to be, I could try to walk you through it.

    Let me know what you find out.

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  34. Hello,

    I have an old frister and rossmann cub 3. It has been serviced professionally in the last couple of years but I haven't really used it since. I just got it out to start using, and have found that when sewing straight stitch, the line of stitching drifts to one side - every couple of inches, the machine puts in a couple of diagonal stitches as if it is sewing zigzag, or it just drifts and looks a little wobbly. My tension seems otherwise to be okay, I'm just not getting a nice straight line of sewing, and I'm not sure what I've done wrong!

    Thank you,

    Rachel

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  35. Hi Rachel,

    I’ve only worked on a couple of those machines, but haven’t seen that kind of problem with them. However, two of them had broken gears. It seems to think it’s in zig-zag, but only occasionally. Is the diagonal stitch regularly spaced? If so, it could be a broken gear on top. Otherwise, It’s likely that the mechanisms in the top of the machine are gummed-up. Remove the top cover and check the gears up there. If neither gear is broken, try some WD-40. Here’s a link on using WD-40 on sewing machines. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html

    I hope you’re able to get your machine sewing again!

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  36. My Singer 99 locked up I think due to a bobbin mess. I've see a piece of thread between the bobbin housing and somewhere underneath but don't see how to disassemble the lower hosting, any thoughts?

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  37. Generally, if that machine freezes up, it’s from old oil that has gummed-up. I wouldn’t disassemble the hook area. I’d spray all of the shafts and joints with WD-40. Here’s a link for how to use WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, I can also see some very small pieces of thread that look to be caught in the bobbin casing

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  38. I have an old Kenmore 1680 that has been a work horse for me. It has recently started making a knocking noise from the bobbin area. I cleaned it really well and it seems to run smoothly without the bobbin case, but as soon as I put the bobbin case in (with or w/o a bobbin) the knocking noise starts. Is it worth trying to find a replacement bobbin case (do they wear out?) or should I try something else?

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  39. I do like those old Kenmores, but they can be clatter buckets. The 1680 has a drop-in bobbin with the crazy toggle bobbin case. I’ve tried to order those from Brewer, and they’re not available. You might be able to get one from Sears. But I imagine the cost is pretty high. Another option is to find another old Kenmore from the thrift store. The front-loading or side-loading Kenmores have a better stitch quality. And you can find them for less than $25. Kenmores are my favorite thrift store machine. They are solid work horse machines.

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    1. Thanks for the input. I received this machine as a high school graduation present so it has sentimental value. I may see if I can find a replacement bobbin. I guess after 35 years, I may need a new machine! I am happy that this is the first real issue I have had with it, other than the buttonholer never worked well.

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  40. Hi, Thanks so much for your website! I have a Sears Kenmore 385-19233 computerized machine, with a "fried motherboard" (trusted repair shop diagnosis.) This machine served me really well for years, and produces one of the nicest satin stitches I've ever seen (including a 7.0mm stitch width.) Replacing the motherboard will cost more than I paid for the machine, if the repair shop does it. Any suggestions? Is this a part that I could possibly put in myself? I just hate to give up on this machine, but am not sure what to do? Thanks!

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  41. Hi KCM,

    Those Kenmores are pretty great machines. But I DO think you could replace the whole machine for something just as good, for maybe a little more than the price of a new motherboard. Maybe a Juki HZLK85? They’re around $500 and have the wider stitch width. You may find a Janome that’s comparable, too – Janome made your machine.

    No, I wouldn’t try to replace the motherboard yourself. For one thing it’s kinda complicated to get everything out, then back in the way it should be. And… When we replace a motherboard on a Bernina, (where I work) we don’t charge any service fees – just because the part is so expensive. I don’t know how Sears/Kenmore does it. But you’d probably pay the same amount to have it replaced as you would to just buy the part.

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    1. Thanks so much for this advice! You're right about the expense--Sears won't do it, and my repair shop researched the cost of the part and found that it would be just about what I paid for the machine in the first place. Thanks for the suggestion on the Juki--that's a brand I have never considered. It's still hard for me to just donate the machine to a thrift store, because it sewed such a nice stitch (and amazing satin stitch) and is still in wonderful shape, except that it has no "brain" so is totally useless. Kinda sad.

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  42. Yes, I know. Our old machines are like a part of the family. But don’t donate it, because someone else will buy it and go through the same thing you did. You can set it up as a vintage decoration in you home.

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  43. I have a husquvarna ruby and when sewing the thread bunches up in the bobbin area , then the machine makes a weid noise can you give me any suggestions

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  44. Usually when the thread bunches up on the bottom of the fabric, the top thread isn’t in the upper tension correctly. But if it’s bunching up inside where the bobbin is, you need to remove the needle plate and clean inside there.

    To remove that needle plate, first remove the clear plastic bobbin cover and the bobbin. Then remove the metal needle plate. To do this, put a small screwdriver in the slot at the back of the needle plate and push it towards you. It doesn’t lift up, it slides towards you. Then you can remove the plastic bobbin case and clean the lint out. Inspect the plastic bobbin case to see if there are any rough spots. If there are, you can remove them with a very fine sandpaper (about 400-500 grit), but be very gentle. It should only take about 4 gentle swipes with the sandpaper. Then put a drop of oil in the center hole and on the feed dog linkages, which are the joints that move when you turn the handwheel. The hook is the pointed part that rotates around the bobbin case. Check that point for burrs. If the point is rough, sand it gently with the same very fine sandpaper. Then put it all back together.

    I hope you can get your machine sewing again.

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  45. Thank you so much for your tips. This has been so helpful. I otherwise would have taken my brother Innovis 610 in for a costly service. It was the tension, of course! After following all of your tips on what to check before taking it to be serviced it seems to be working again. Very much appreciated. Thanks!

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  46. I have a kenmore 385.16524000, that will not sew in reverse. I cannot get the front panel off to see if it just needs cleaning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  47. We try not to take the front off of a machine if we don’t need to. You need to get into the bottom of the machine. The problem is connected to the feed linkage. If you can flip the switch to drop the feed dogs, watch what happens under the machine. There’s a bullet shaped part that moves in and out of a tube. I couldn’t find a picture of your machine on Google Images, and I don’t have all of them memorized. But on some it’s a plastic tube and on others it’s a metal tube. You need to get some WD-40 worked into that area of the machine. Here’s a link to using WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html It also helps to heat the part with a hair dryer. There’s a part that should snap into place when it’s time to sew in reverse, but it’s gummed up. If you watch underneath, you may see a part that moves slowly when you push the reverse button. That’s got to snap in, not take its time.

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  48. Thank you so much for your help. I will try that.

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  49. Greetings,
    I have been using a baby lock creative pro (purchased at auction for $35) Has been a fantastic second machine, but now after many years of use, the bobbin casing is constantly coming unseated. The casing is sloppy and casing spring is not able to stop the bump. There was significant scaring, so have sanded the burs off, sadly to no avail. My question to you would be, is it worth while to replace the casing at this stage...or should I bury it in the back yard...and go shopping.

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  50. Hi Rosie,

    Sometimes, replacing the bobbin case will take care of the problem. However, with it coming “unseated,” it’s more likely to be the bobbin case retainer. There’s a finger-like metal piece on the left/back of the bobbin area that sometimes needs to be re-positioned or bent downward to hold the bobbin case better. The bobbin case needs to have a little wiggle room for the thread to pass between the bump and the spring. If adjusting the retainer doesn’t help, then you’d need a new bobbin case.

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  51. Will definitely try to do an adjustment. Many thanks for taking time to offer a suggestion. Much appreciated.

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  52. Hey? Maybe you can help before I take the machine back in. I have a Juki F300 and just spent $150 to get it fixed. Bobbin case issue, the only plastic part on Juki Exceeds. Anyway, was sewing fine, on spandex, zooming along. I ran out of top thread, went and put on a new spool and bam! I have no stitches. NO matter what I do, rethread, change the spool, machine on an off, change bobbin thread, rethread. Nada, no stitches, can the timing go out for no apparent reason? I didn' break a needle, go over heavy fabric, just ran out of thread. Is there something I"m no trying before it goes back in. I've only sewn on the "fixed" machine for a day, but it worked fine for that time until...it didn't.Help..Den

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  53. One more thing on the Juki, I use Gutterman all thread and the BP 70/11 needles, never had an issue. WHen I thread the needle I don't feel any tension tug before this happened, how to make sure the thread is caught in the tension grippers?

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  54. Hi Den,

    When the presser foot is up, the tension disks are open. When you put the presser foot down, they close. That’s when you should be able to feel a tug. So, if all you did was run out of thread, I wonder if the thread got stuck on one side or the other of the tension disks? But that still wouldn’t explain why the machine isn’t forming a stitch. Are you positive that the needle is in correctly? The flat side goes to the back, and make sure the needle didn’t slip down. If the needle is in the wrong position, that will throw the timing off.

    Holly Molly! $150 for a service! That’s criminal! We’re still charging $70.

    Keep me posted.

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  55. Yep. All of the above. I checked everything. I've used this machine daily for about 3 yrs and just recently bought the f600 since I love the features of the Exceed line. Reaced needle, Needle in correctly, thread rethreaded a dozen times as well as bobbin, turned machine on and off thinking maybe a re-boot, and still no stitches. Bobbin case moves but doesnt pick up top thread to create a stitch, its driving me nuts. So I guess my expensive repair guy gets the machine back. One day of use, no problem, now dead again. I think $150 should last a bit longer. Right? Must be timing.

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  56. I have a question and don't know if this is the correct area to enter it, but here goes. I have a Brother SE-270d Sewing/Embroidery machine and everything seems to work well except the bobbin winder. I follow all the directions and push the button, machine makes a noise like it is winding the bobbin but the bobbin is not moving, shaft on winder is not moving. Is there anywhere I can look for directions on how to remove machine cover to see if the o-ring has deteriorated or come off or something.

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  57. Hi Debi,

    You don’t want to open this machine yourself. There’s too many cables and computer components, and screws in weird places. The only suggestion I have is to try to turn the bobbin winder spindle by hand. If you’re not able to turn it by hand, it’s probably frozen-up. Try putting a little WD-40 on the spindle and let it work in. Try to turn it by hand and keep working it until it’s un-frozen. If that doesn’t work, take it to a Brother dealer. We had one of those in the shop last week with tension disks that wouldn’t close, and The Boss didn’t want to touch it. And he’s been doing this for 30 years.

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  58. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  59. I have a White 3300 embroidery machine, she's been good to me but the last time I stitched something thick it birdnested, so I took the thread out along with the bobbin, checked the bobbin case for thread underneath then put it back and now the upper thread won't catch the bottom thread, been sewing for years never seen anything like it. It has the plastic type of bobbin and I have looked everywhere online and I am just beside myself that I really messed something up with her. Is there hope? Should I buy a new bobbin case or do you think it's more serious. Hubby's not too happy with me cause I bought a lot of embroidery designs and now my machine is sick.

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  60. It sounds like your timing is off. First, put a new needle in. If the needle is bent or not pushed all the way up, it will throw the timing off. If a new needle doesn’t take care of the problem, the timing is off, and you’ll need to take it to the shop for that.

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  61. My Singer 758 flywheel is hard to turn, it is harder to turn at one point that it is the other 340 degrees of the wheel. The machine has been in storage for several years, and I decided it just needed oil, but it got just a minimally bit better after being oiled. I am afraid to use it for fear of ruining the gears.

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  62. Sounds like it could be a broken gear. The only way to know if there’s a broken gear, is to take the top and bottom off of the machine and take a look. There are 4 nylon gears in that machine. There’s a set in the top/right and another set in the bottom on the drive shaft. If you’ve got a broken gear, you’re likely to be told to put your money into another sewing machine, than to replace a broken gear. The reason is that when one gear goes, there are 3 more that are likely to follow.

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  63. I do not see a broken gear, but is likely I do not know, There is no gear shearings, broken bits coming off in the case top or bottom, all the lub places are crumbly orangy brown. The machine looks quite good inside otherwise.

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  64. That sounds great. So if there’s crumbly, orangy brown stuff in there, that may mean that the old grease or oil has hardened and needs to be removed. We use WD-40 at the shop to remove the old grease and oil. Here’s a link to using WD-40 on your machine. http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.blogspot.com/2014/12/using-wd-40-on-sewing-machines.html

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